Sewing Bias – Introduction and Inspiration

Today we are kicking off a series of posts around our 2 sewing patterns on the bias, the Christy Slip Dress and the Kate Bias Top. Both patterns are strongly inspired by our favorite fashion decade, the 90’s. We just love the era of supermodel and clean lines.

The dress hits below the knee and has a flattering rounded neckline, while the top features a sexy V, but they come from the same block, so you can easily interchange necklines. The simple lines of those designs lend themselves to endless possibilities to suit your fancy. You can choose a beautiful silk, make it double layer and add delicate details such as french seams, a baby hem and tiny spaghetti straps to achieve the perfect party dress or top. We promise you that you will never feel under or over dressed!

 

But you can also decide to make them as luxurious sleepwear or undergarments, with a single layer of silk charmeuse, bias binding and adjustable lingerie straps or try cotton batiste to stay cool on those hot summer nights. And if you feel like going even fancier, how about some lace appliqué around the neckline or the bottom edge?

We created Pinterest boards for you to browse and get inspired, we’ll keep adding more so don’t hesitate to follow them!

Our upcoming posts will feature specific techniques and tutorials as well as versions sewn by you! Grab your patterns in our Etsy Store and  share your slip or our camisole with us on Instagram (#katebiastop #christyslipdress) or in our brand new Facebook Community Group!

Introducing: the Linda Wrap Dress sewing pattern

After literally months of teasing on Instagram, we are thrilled to finally release our newest sewing pattern, the Linda wrap dress! This dress is a favorite of both Eira and I as it is the perfect garment to be dressed up and yet still comfortable. Add the Linda to your handmade wardrobe and we promise that it won’t ever let you down!

Our wrap dress has a relaxed fit with gathers in the front and the back of the bodice and skirt. The sleeves feature a with a two piece placket and a cuff closed by a button. Their mid-length makes it a perfect choice all year round to wear in the office to fight the freezing A/C in the summer and or the crazy over heating radiator. They provide coverage but won’t get in the way!

GET THE PATTERN IN OUR ETSY STORE!

Linda wrap dress by Just Patterns

It’s truly the details that make this dress special. The bias cut collar sitting at the base of the neck. The super practical side pockets and the double top stitching elevate a wardrobe basic to a special piece that you will reach for over and over.

The cream color sample shown is made from a heavier 4 ply silk, while the black one was made from a wool blend crepe. Both fabrics are characterized by a nice drape, therefore we recommend woven fabrics with body and drape for this pattern.

The waistband has an interesting a belt closure. We recommend a 35mm metal buckle but we can’t wait to see what creative alternative solutions you are going to come up with. Seeing your interpretations is the best part of designing sewing patterns! For the eyelets, you can use 2-piece metal ones with the ring (they provide a cleaner finish on both sides and the eyelet alone, or you can embroider them just like buttonholes. If you are in the New York City area, we recommend going to Jonathan’s Embroidery.

What the pattern includes

Like our other sewing patterns, the dress is is available from size 34 to 46 (see our size chart for more information). The pattern includes:

  • a layered PDF with 4 printing options (30 pages in A4, 32 pages in letter Letter, 2 pages A0, and 2 Pages for US Copy Shop 36″x48″ and 30″x42″);
  • a cutter’s must;
  • a suggested order of operations.

We strongly suggest that you make full use of the layered PDF files and print only the size your need, as we include as much information as we can directly on the pattern pieces.

Just Patterns products are meant for dressmakers who like to do things their own way but if you need more help to sew your dress, our dedicated resource page is available.

We can’t wait to see your versions of the Linda dress. Don’t hesitate to reach out to us by email or on Instagram @just_patterns #lindawrapdress!

GET THE PATTERN IN OUR ETSY STORE!

Why we are “just” patterns

Creating your dream wardrobe is probably one of the main reasons people start sewing their clothes. Many of us want clothes that fit our particular body, our aesthetic, in beautiful fabric and made in fair conditions. Unless we have large financial means, the best option will end up making them ourselves. This is how my sewing journey began, and maybe yours too? It took me years to develop the skills needed to complete the garments that inspired me in the first place. The pleasure of making compensated the initial less-than-perfect results. However, once I reached a certain level, I started feeling constrained by the tools available in home-sewing.

blazermuslinSo I invested. I took pattern making and draping classes. I bought books. I shopped the best fabric I could afford. I opened all the nice garments I could get my hands on. And I bought patterns. Many, many patterns. But the disconnect between what I wanted and what I was making remained. Most of those patterns were not designed to help me achieve the wardrobe I had in mind. Worse, sometimes I would make things that looked worse than if I had bought them in a fast fashion store. Unfortunately, my sewing time was limited and I didn’t have the time to draft everything from scratch.

In my last post I mentioned how the emergence of new independent patterns designers has helped in making garment sewing accessible to new sewers. I believe that it also strengthened the sewing community, making it a common learning place for instance with the in-depth information provided through sew-alongs. Intermediate and more experienced dressmakers also benefited from  this movement. Suddenly, there were more patterns, more fabric, more notions becoming available worldwide. Well-established home sewing businesses were/are challenged, they become active on Social Media, they renew their offering, etc.

bias_binding_2But if you have been sewing for a long time, or you “graduated” from the beginner projects, you may want more. When in your pattern reviews you systematically answer the question “What did you think of the instructions” by “I didn’t read them” you don’t necessarily attach the same value to sewing patterns. The teaching component of many sewing patterns isn’t necessary,  and you prefer to do your own thing anyway!

We are “just” patterns because we don’t teach you how to sew. We believe that there are enough resources out there for us to focus on the pattern making process. Your sewing time is limited, the to-sew list is always too long… So even if you know how to draft/drape patterns, buying the pattern often saves time.

spaghetti_4Sadly, sewing budget is also limited, at least for most of us. We decided to focus on the most important part, the pattern development, so that we can keep the price of our patterns as low as possible. Our pricing is also proportional, if developing and grading the pattern requires more time/money, the price will be adjusted accordingly. This approach also makes it cost-effective for you to use our copy shop printing options. In addition to Letter and A4 printing formats, all our patterns are available in 36″ wide and A0. More sewing, less taping!

At the end of the day, it is your passion, your skills, your choice of fabric and your styling will make a beautiful garment that you will love for the years to come. Patterns are “Just Patterns”!

Welcome to Just Patterns!

This is a very exciting time for us. We are finally launching a project that we have been talking about for years and we are so glad that you are part of it. In case you didn’t read our About page, let me introduce ourselves!

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Just Patterns is long time talked about and finally launched project by my friend and patternmaker extraordinaire Eira (who you may know from her blog and Instagram – The Pattern Line) and myself – Delphine – currently blogging and Instagramming under the name Sewing Tidbits. We met back in 2012, in a draping class at FIT.

Since I started sewing, when I was 14, I always had the impression (obsession??) that something was missing in the offer of sewing patterns. Many of us start sewing because they want clothes that cannot afford, or that don’t exist exactly the way they want. Yet, unless we dedicate years to learning how to draft and drape, we are constrained by sewing patterns that do not match our vision or our expectations.

justpatterns2101In recent years, many new independent pattern designers have appeared, often catering to niche markets, but mostly targeting new and intermediate sewers. It had the great effect of encouraging more people to make their own clothes but we feel that the offer for more advanced dressmakers has not evolved at the same speed.

To complete our FIT assignments, Eira and I used to drool research for hours in New York City’s nicest stores, looking inside garments, spying construction techniques, studying style lines. Those were the clothes we dreamed to have in our closet, but we couldn’t afford them. Even if they were, they wouldn’t always fit right.

After some time and seeing many of the beautiful garments Eira was making from her self-drafted patterns, I opened up to her about how I felt the home-sewing patterns were lacking to get that high-end look. She was clueless since she had never used a commercial pattern but I showed her dozens of examples and she became enthusiastic at the idea of making something different available.

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In the mean time, life happened and I moved out of New York. Fast forward a couple of years, I am back in the City, at the end of my maternity leave and the stars are finally aligning so that we can launch our first patterns. You can find them in our Etsy store!

Next time I’ll talk about what we want our sewing patterns to be, until then you can let us know what you think. We love to talk about everything sewing and fashion related!

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