Updated pleated skirt, meet the Stephanie Skirt!

You may have noticed that we decided to make some tweaking to the way we present our sewing patterns. They now have names to be easier to remember and the latest one to be updated is our popular pleated skirt pattern, now called the Stephanie Skirt.

Just Patterns - Stephanie Skirt CoverWe took the opportunity to do some redesign of the information package, the cover is has changed a little but more importantly we now include more information on the style and fabric recommendations. The pattern itself is still exactly the same!

Just Patterns - Stephanie Skirt Information PackWe clarified certain areas and added a PDF layout for the print at home options to make is easier to tape together. You can find the Stephanie Skirt pattern in our Etsy Store, don’t forget to check the Resource Page, where we gather tutorials to help you complete your skirt.

Little by little we will be updating the packages for our 3 other patterns and we have some exciting new patterns lined up for fall. We will be back very soon to show you more! All the changes were based on the feedback we received from our customers so let us know what you think, we are listening and striving to improve your experience!

Happy sewing!

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Sewing Bias – Cutting bias strips and making Spaghetti Straps

Whenever you cut a garment on the bias it’s generally a good idea to use the “lost” corners of the layout to cut some extra bias strips. 1 1/2 inch is a versatile width to bind edges or seams, or make spaghetti (rouleaux) straps like we are showing you today!

To cut delicate fabric like silk and chiffon, we recommend sandwiching it between two layers of paper. Dotted pattern paper is what we like to use, we buy it locally but you can find it here.

Just Patterns - Cutting Delicate Fabric

After ironing your fabric lay it in a single layer over a first layer of paper. Use the edge of the paper to align the selvedge perfectly.

Just Patterns - Cutting Delicate Fabric

Then carefully unroll the second layer of paper over the fabric. Again align the paper edge carefully to the fabric and the first layer of paper.

Just Patterns - Cutting Delicate FabricLay your pattern pieces over the second layer of paper and draw 1 1/2 inch Bias Strips wherever you have significant remnants.

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You can store your additional strips by pinning them together and hanging them close to your sewing machine. They will come in handy more often than you think!

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For the spaghetti/rouleaux straps, fold your strips lengthwise and sew along the folded edge, at no more than 1/8″ (3mm).

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The secret to nicely rounded strap is to not trim the seam allowance and to use a loop turner. Alternatively you could use thread on a tapestry needle but it will be more difficult.

Just Patterns Spaghetti Straps Tutorial

Insert the loop turner all the way through the strap and make a small notch about 1/4″ (6mm) from the end to pull out the hook.

Just Patterns Spaghetti Straps Tutorial194

Pull the loop turner gently, moving and easing the fabric as you go until it is completely turned out.

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Congratulations, you made a beautiful strap ready to be installed on your Kate Bias Top or Christy Slip Dress!

Disclaimer – this post contains affiliate links to products similar to the ones we use in the pictures.

Sewing Bias – Getting started with Just Patterns

The information we include with our patterns may be less detailed than what you are accustomed to, but they should provide enough information for an intermediate sewer or an adventurous beginner to complete the garment. In this post we’ll show you where to locate the most important elements and use the layered PDF functionality.

When you buy one of our patterns in our Etsy Store, you can download 5 files:

  • The information file
  • The pattern in Letter format
  • The pattern in A4 format
  • The pattern in A0 format
  • and the pattern in US copy shop format

Below is the cover of our Christy Slip Dress:

Just Patterns Cover Christy Slip Dress

In the following pages you will find information about fit, fabric and selecting your size:

2101-Christy-Slip-Dress-Information Underslined-page-002

Next is the cutters must. It summarizes how many of each pattern pieces you need to cut in each fabric (self, lining, fusible, etc.). As well as other pieces for which paper pieces are not provided, such as bias strips. It also includes the technical drawing of the garment and an estimation of fabric requirements. We currently do not include cutting layouts because of how much they can vary  depending on the size you are cutting and the width of your fabric.

Just Patterns Christy Slip Dress information page 3

The following table is a suggested order of operations. This is the order we used to sew the samples shown on the cover. But if you are making changes to the pattern, for instance you decided to make the pattern single layer and finish the edges with bias binding, then this operations will be quite different. The table is designed for you to check at a glance the width of the seam allowances and the type of seams so that you don’t have to rummage through pages of text to find it.

Just Patterns Christy Slip Dress information Operations

In case you need more help, links to tutorials, videos, etc. are available in the resource page of each pattern. Finally, you’ll find the hashtags to share your work on social media. For the slip dress it’s #christyslipdress and for the camisole it’s #katebiastop (there is another Kate Top sewing pattern out there by Tessuti, so don’t forget to add the bias!).

Now let’s have a look at the pattern files! The layers are enabled in every printing format. When you open your pattern in the Adobe Acrobat Reader, use the layers tab on the left of the screen and select only the size you need but keep “print marks” and “all sizes” activated.

Just Patterns Layered PDF

 

As you can see above, the pattern pieces extend beyond the cutting marks. This should make it extra easy for you to put it together. You will also notice that the seam lines are printed on all pieces. Because our seam allowances vary with the type of seams, they are printed on all pieces, for every size. This is why we strongly recommend you use the layer function. Otherwise it can get quite busy, even for a simple pattern.

We hope that this post was useful and we will be back soon for some actual sewing posts! Don’t hesitate to reach out in the comments or anywhere else if you would like more information! Do you see a Christy or a Kate in your near future?

Sewing Bias – Introduction and Inspiration

Today we are kicking off a series of posts around our 2 sewing patterns on the bias, the Christy Slip Dress and the Kate Bias Top. Both patterns are strongly inspired by our favorite fashion decade, the 90’s. We just love the era of supermodel and clean lines.

The dress hits below the knee and has a flattering rounded neckline, while the top features a sexy V, but they come from the same block, so you can easily interchange necklines. The simple lines of those designs lend themselves to endless possibilities to suit your fancy. You can choose a beautiful silk, make it double layer and add delicate details such as french seams, a baby hem and tiny spaghetti straps to achieve the perfect party dress or top. We promise you that you will never feel under or over dressed!

 

But you can also decide to make them as luxurious sleepwear or undergarments, with a single layer of silk charmeuse, bias binding and adjustable lingerie straps or try cotton batiste to stay cool on those hot summer nights. And if you feel like going even fancier, how about some lace appliqué around the neckline or the bottom edge?

We created Pinterest boards for you to browse and get inspired, we’ll keep adding more so don’t hesitate to follow them!

Our upcoming posts will feature specific techniques and tutorials as well as versions sewn by you! Grab your patterns in our Etsy Store and  share your slip or our camisole with us on Instagram (#katebiastop #christyslipdress) or in our brand new Facebook Community Group!

Introducing: the Linda Wrap Dress sewing pattern

After literally months of teasing on Instagram, we are thrilled to finally release our newest sewing pattern, the Linda wrap dress! This dress is a favorite of both Eira and I as it is the perfect garment to be dressed up and yet still comfortable. Add the Linda to your handmade wardrobe and we promise that it won’t ever let you down!

Our wrap dress has a relaxed fit with gathers in the front and the back of the bodice and skirt. The sleeves feature a with a two piece placket and a cuff closed by a button. Their mid-length makes it a perfect choice all year round to wear in the office to fight the freezing A/C in the summer and or the crazy over heating radiator. They provide coverage but won’t get in the way!

GET THE PATTERN IN OUR ETSY STORE!

Linda wrap dress by Just Patterns

It’s truly the details that make this dress special. The bias cut collar sitting at the base of the neck. The super practical side pockets and the double top stitching elevate a wardrobe basic to a special piece that you will reach for over and over.

The cream color sample shown is made from a heavier 4 ply silk, while the black one was made from a wool blend crepe. Both fabrics are characterized by a nice drape, therefore we recommend woven fabrics with body and drape for this pattern.

The waistband has an interesting a belt closure. We recommend a 35mm metal buckle but we can’t wait to see what creative alternative solutions you are going to come up with. Seeing your interpretations is the best part of designing sewing patterns! For the eyelets, you can use 2-piece metal ones with the ring (they provide a cleaner finish on both sides and the eyelet alone, or you can embroider them just like buttonholes. If you are in the New York City area, we recommend going to Jonathan’s Embroidery.

What the pattern includes

Like our other sewing patterns, the dress is is available from size 34 to 46 (see our size chart for more information). The pattern includes:

  • a layered PDF with 4 printing options (30 pages in A4, 32 pages in letter Letter, 2 pages A0, and 2 Pages for US Copy Shop 36″x48″ and 30″x42″);
  • a cutter’s must;
  • a suggested order of operations.

We strongly suggest that you make full use of the layered PDF files and print only the size your need, as we include as much information as we can directly on the pattern pieces.

Just Patterns products are meant for dressmakers who like to do things their own way but if you need more help to sew your dress, our dedicated resource page is available.

We can’t wait to see your versions of the Linda dress. Don’t hesitate to reach out to us by email or on Instagram @just_patterns #lindawrapdress!

GET THE PATTERN IN OUR ETSY STORE!