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Moooaaar Shirts - Sewaholic Granville, a review

Sewing Tidbits

Sewing Tidbits is the sewing blog written since 2013 by Delphine, the co-founder of Just Patterns.

Moooaaar Shirts - Sewaholic Granville, a review

Sewing Tidbits

Dear readers,I am showing you 3 shirts in a row. For the sake of diversity, I probably should have broken it up with something else  but it's not like I'm posting every day (haha, posting everyday !!) so bear with me!Granville Shirt-2So yes, third shirt. I thought I was done with them, especially after sewing what I considered my TNT and then Sewaholic released the Granville shirt. Nice pockets + fitted lines + indie pattern company I meant to try = download the very day of the release. Let's jump right in the review.First, the PDF. Everything lined up well and I had the impression that efforts were made to spread each piece on a limited number of pages. Nice. I needed size 0 and since this pattern goes up to size 20 (which is awesome), I felt I was using a lot more paper that I would need for my size. I guess you can't really have it all but maybe it could be an option to spread the size range from 0 to 12 and from 8 to 20 (so that people can still blend between sizes).My second concern is regarding the V notches, they look too thick/messy on the PDF. The issue is actually more general. Sewaholic patterns are very close to the standards of the Big 4. It makes them an easy entry in the Indie pattern world if you come from a Big 4 sewing background but I haven't sewn Big 4 in a while. 5/8" seam allowances and V notches annoy me. A. LOT.Granville Shirt-5I wanted to try the fit of the pattern out of the printer so I made only one substantial change. I measured my last shirt and shortened the sleeve pattern accordingly... BY 3 1/2 INCHES !! Now, I mentioned several times being aware of my short arms situation. But all the reviews of the Granville pattern I read so far mentioned shortening the sleeves as an alteration. Sewaholic: patterns for pear-shaped ladies with Gibbon arms? (Gibbons are cute though).I did not use the instructions for the construction. I read them, they were standard and I think that the series of post written by Tasia provides great information if you are into the Coffin's method. I'm not. If sewing was like being part of a sect, my shirtmaking guru would be Shimazaki. Therefore, I HAD to change ALL the seam allowances : a mixture of 1/4, 3/8 and occasionally 1/2. I could get into details but I don't know how interesting it is for you, is it? I will say thought that IMO, sewing a collar + stand with 5/8" makes no sense. Call me clumsy, but I don't see how you can be precise (without a template, which is a good idea). 1/4" forever!!Lastly, the hem allowance is way too big: 3/4" is hard to fold twice and a final hem of 3/8"looks too wide IMO. I went with the Grainline approach: 1/2 folded twice.Granville Shirt-4The construction was smooth and without major challenges. I read other reviews finding the instructions unclear for the sleeve placket but I followed them and I was fine. The amount of ease in the sleeve cap is limited and I managed to set them in flat and sew the side seam afterwards.Now let's talk about the final product: I like the shirt, I really do. The small collar is adorable and very modern. The pockets are perfect (size and placement). The shoulders are where they should. However, I probably won't wear it much, which is a shame considering all the flat-felling and topstitching that went into it. Why? Because the arms are OMG so tight!!! See below for an illustration:Granville Shirt-1Yes, that tight. I feel like I'm about to incredible-hulk my shirt every time I brush my hair, put eyeliner or drive... I don't believe that I have particularly muscular arms for my frame. I do work out but I wear (mostly RTW) shirts probably 6 day/week and this has never been an issue. As much as I would like to tell you that this is my new favorite shirt I can't, it's too restrictive. I'm not against some tight clothing but not for woven shirts... Rolling up the sleeves does help a little. Which is good because The Old Man LOVES the shirt.You may recognize the fabric from my Lekala/Michael Kors dress, it's the same lightweight denim that looks like linen. Interfacing and buttons are from stash.Granville Shirt-3Final verdict: I still like my shirt and I think with some tweaking I could have 2 TNT patterns. One unfitted from the Archer and this one if I want a closer fit. Next version would include : using the sleeves and armholes from size 2, shortening the body above the waist and reducing the flare at the hips. What do you think, would you recommend additional alterations?