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Sewing Tidbits

Sewing Tidbits is the sewing blog written since 2013 by Delphine, the co-founder of Just Patterns.

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Sewing slower - Persephone Pants and Fulwood Top

Sewing Tidbits

I am not a particularly meticulous sewist. I do take my time but there is usually a moment when I start rushing. The context is almost always the same: I am in the "sewing zone", everything is going well and I suddenly decide that I want to wear what I'm working on, THAT night! And instantly,  things start going all wrong... I make mistakes I would normally never make, the machines act out, the little human wakes up, you name it... Of course, I never get to wear the garment that night and my next sewing session will be dedicated to fixing mistakes. Sounds familiar?

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Perfect T-shirt: FREE PATTERN ALERT !!

Sewing Tidbits

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I try to force myself to work with knits to improve my serger skills. It's hard because the results are not yet to my standard but it's a humbling experience after 14 years of sewing... Now for the pattern, don't go, RUN to get Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick Tonic T-shirt pattern!! Why ? It's FREEEEEEEE and it's PERFECT!CIMG2212Now, the only thing you have to be careful about is measurements: it's very close fitting so make sure your knit has the proper amount of recovery (printed on the instructions so yay!!) and adjust the length if needed. I'm 5'3" and because I wear my bottoms either high waisted or pretty low on the hips, next time (oh yes there wil be many next times!!) I'll add 2" to make sure that I don't expose my tummy in the office... Also, I have one less positive comment about the pattern, it's a tiled PDF and there are no marks for where to join the pages. Since it's just a t-shirt and you can just make sure lines are straight, it's ok but I hope that for their more complex pattern SBCC is including this marks!CIMG2220I love everything about this pattern, the instructions are great (closer result to RTW), the scoop neck is nice and wide, the drafting is perfect, the fit is great and did I say that it's free ?? This blue knit is from my last hangout with Lakaribane in Pétionville (did I say that she's evil?? She shows you around Port-au-Prince, take you to eat delicious lobster and gets you to buy fabric to justify her own addiction... I'm telling you, she's dangerous ;-) )CIMG2232 For the construction, I serged all seams as per instruction, starting with one shoulder, finishing the neckline (hum hum, a lot of room for improvement here), serging the second shoulder, adding the sleeves, serging side seams and underarms seams at once and then serging and double stitching the hems.The usual dressform shots: IMG_0830IMG_0831IMG_0832And to my shame the close-ups where you can see my less than perfect work on the neckline. Do you have a tip to cut a constitent 1/8" with the knif of the serger or do I have to get use to it?IMG_0833 IMG_0834 IMG_0835As you can see, the final result is quite close fitting. I used size XXS but I want to try to go up 2 sizes to make a loose version out of this amazingly soft and beautiful vintage silk jersey I just got in Paris. WHAT? Did I say vintage french silk jersey ? Yes... A fabric p*rn post from my trip back home is on the way...Any tips for my serger learning curve? 

Grainline Scout Tee Sewalong

Sewing Tidbits

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Starting to write this post, I just realized that I think it is the first time that I actually sew a pattern from an independent sewing pattern company. I have been obsessed with them, mostly because this is something I have been thinking about doing since I was 14, but I never was fully into the styles and if I tempted the sizings are usually to big. In particular, I remember emailing one about there smallest bust measurement (maybe you can guess with one I'm talking about...) saying that it was a pity their smallest size was so big. I got a reply saying that I should do an SBA (Small Bust Adjustment). I was very disappointed because to me it felt like they did not understand their customers. Petite and Small in measurements women are always thought to be shapeless by the "curvier" people out there. I'm probably not going to make a lot of friends here but I never thought that curves were about measurements. Leaving in 4 different countries and continent in the last 4 years, I've seen shapes and shapelessness in every size and at every age !Anyway... Maybe one day I'll write the whole body image mandatory blogpost...Going back to this pattern, I've been following Grainline Studio with a particular interest. I like a lot of things about Jen, her patterns and her designs and I was not disappointed making this one.CIMG2156This scout woven tee was made out of quilt cotton (GASP!) I bought 2 years ago when visiting Philadelphia. I know that a lot have been said about sewing with quilt cotton. I'm not one who would normally do it, it does not fit my wardrobe or my lifestyle. But once in a while, for a cute print, I allow myself to slip.... That same day in Philadelphia, I bought another piece of fabric that I used as soon as I was back in New York. TOTAL disaster!! I never wore it... Maybe one day I'll show it on the blog and ask for advice on what I should do with it.CIMG2179With all the silk things, the leather and the coat making, sometimes I forget about how enjoyable it can be to make a SIMPLE pattern in an EASY fabric. The whole thing from taping the pattern to putting the final result on Instagram took me less than 3 hours!CIMG2186I made size 0 with no alterations and I was extremely pleased with the instructions : concise, clear and efficient. I serged the inside to practice my serging abilities (still VERY limited, I'm embarrassed to admit...).I found the motivation to make it for the kollabora sewalong. I'm completely new to the kollabora community but it looks nice. However, I'm a bit hesitant to start uploading there as I am already struggling to find the time for the blog, Burdastyle and Pattern Review...IMG_0766I've seen some very nice knit versions here and there and I'm willing to try (more practice with the serger...). I think I would change a few things to the pattern. First, the shoulder seam is funny, maybe you can see what I mean on this picture :IMG_0769And for a knit, I would remove the ease of the sleeve and lengthen the bodice maybe 2 inches. What do you think ? Are you tired of the view of my balcony already ?