Sewing Tidbits is the sewing blog written since 2013 by Delphine, the co-founder of Just Patterns.
Filtering by Tag: white
Dear Readers,First things first: Happy New Year! I won't do a review of my year because I only posted 23 times, so there would not be much to say... My goal for 2015 is to double this number! Now, without any transition, let's look at my new favorite shirt! The shirt was finished at least 3 weeks ago but I hate making buttonholes so much that it waited in a dusty corner until I made another shirt, for The Old Man this time, and then did all the buttonholes at once.I wanted this shirt to be as close as possible to a man classic Oxford shirt but with an appropriate fit. I believe that I achieved my goal.The initial pattern for this shirt is my modified Archer. Additional changes included using the collar and stand of my white shirtdress (from the Japanese book Blouse, Skirts, Pants), adding back darts, removing the CB box pleat and shortening sleeves AGAIN by 2". They look embarrassingly short on the hanger but just right when worn. #Creepybabyarms, again.I can now officially say that no pattern piece is the same as the original Archer and that I am very close to a TNT pattern. Why, not a TNT yet? Because of some pooling in the upper back. I tried to pin out a horizontal take of 1" just under the yoke and it looked so much better. However, I have not figured out how to remove it without completely killing my armhole... I'm waiting for an Eureka moment that may or may not come!The fabric is cotton I bought in Panajachel, Guatemala (by the beautiful lake Atitlán). It was cheap, has some texture and looks like washed cotton. I'm not sure if it has a name but it can get almost a paper feeling. I think it works well for this shirt but I would not recommend it for any project.My shirtmaking skills are work in progress but they are improving each time. Compared to my last shirt, I went back to a classic collar construction order and I used different seam allowances for the flat-felled seams. Everything came together painlessly EXCEPT when I prepared, attached and topstitched BOTH sleeves to the body, only to realize that the wrong sides were on the outside. A lot of seam ripping/self cursing. Not fun.The shirt is definitely filling a gap in my wardrobe. I cannot remember for how long I've wanted a 100% cotton white shirt. They seem to have become a rare commodity and I hate the blends that are sold currently from H&M to Ann Taylor. In addition to yellowing and aging badly, they also tend to be see-through, which is puzzling to me since their primary use is for the office.Finally, the pictures were all taken with my new camera, in full manual mode! I know it seems normal to a lot of you but I'm very happy about it. Also I quit on trying to keep the dog out of the pictures. He loves being in the middle of things...After this shirt, I decided I was comfortable enough to go up one step: a man's shirt. I will be back in a few days with pictures of The Old Man in his fancy linen shirt! I thought I would be done with those 2 shirts for a while, but then I saw the beautiful one Sasha just posted and Sewaholic released the Granville pattern. So... Granville is already printed and taped, I guess I will be back with more shirts soon! What about you? Are you getting closer to your TNT patterns in 2015?
So with the sewing machines, also arrived the tripod for the camera. This means that I can take the pictures of the projects I finished while still in NY. As with the Preen skirt and the Jadigan/Cardicket, I was already sewing with a warmer weather in mind as I new I was going to move to Haiti. This shirtdress is something I had in mind for a while, I looked everywhere online and I couldn't find what I was looking for. Of course now, shirtdresses are everywhere...The pattern is a combination of different things, for the top I used the basic shirt from this japanese book.I changed the undercollar to account for the technique described on Kathleen on Fashion-Incubator. I made the shirt in muslin, put it on my dress form and added a band for the waist, a tiny pocket and gathered rectangle for the skirt (but with pockets !!).For the construction I used different techniques : Pam's tutorial on Collar points (which works great but I'm not sure it should be used in combination with the smaller undercollar described on Fashion-Incubator...), and a lot of reversed engineering from my nicest Ann Taylor and J-Crew shirts (especially the plackets).I used french seams of the shoulders, set the sleeves in flat (stitch overlocked and then partially topstitched as per JCrew) and then closed the side seams and sleeve at once (well twice because it's a french seam again.I had the buttonholes professionally made Jonathan Embroidery in NYC, such a relief to not mess everything up right at the end. The fabric is a very nice "coton piqué" from Mood and the buttons are from M&J Trimmings. The lightweight interfacing (collar, collarband, plackets and waistband) is from Guide Fabrics.The waist dart is doing all the shaping for the front and therefore it is quite wide. I took some picture while sewing it at the "french waist dart". I don't know a proper word because this is not a french dart, it's more of a waist dart sewn as a french seam. If anybody know how it's actually called, let me know !! I'll try to make a tutorial out of the pictures I took.I really love this dress, it's super comfortable (I spend a good portion of my days hopping in and out of 4x4, I realize that I need my skirts quite full to perform this task) and warm weather friendly ! The only problem is probably with the whiteness... I don't know about you but the lighter is my outfit the more I spill stuff on myself!! I am strongly considering a version out of chambray, stay tuned!