Sewing Bias – Cutting bias strips and making Spaghetti Straps

Whenever you cut a garment on the bias it’s generally a good idea to use the “lost” corners of the layout to cut some extra bias strips. 1 1/2 inch is a versatile width to bind edges or seams, or make spaghetti (rouleaux) straps like we are showing you today!

To cut delicate fabric like silk and chiffon, we recommend sandwiching it between two layers of paper. Dotted pattern paper is what we like to use, we buy it locally but you can find it here.

Just Patterns - Cutting Delicate Fabric

After ironing your fabric lay it in a single layer over a first layer of paper. Use the edge of the paper to align the selvedge perfectly.

Just Patterns - Cutting Delicate Fabric

Then carefully unroll the second layer of paper over the fabric. Again align the paper edge carefully to the fabric and the first layer of paper.

Just Patterns - Cutting Delicate FabricLay your pattern pieces over the second layer of paper and draw 1 1/2 inch Bias Strips wherever you have significant remnants.

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You can store your additional strips by pinning them together and hanging them close to your sewing machine. They will come in handy more often than you think!

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For the spaghetti/rouleaux straps, fold your strips lengthwise and sew along the folded edge, at no more than 1/8″ (3mm).

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The secret to nicely rounded strap is to not trim the seam allowance and to use a loop turner. Alternatively you could use thread on a tapestry needle but it will be more difficult.

Just Patterns Spaghetti Straps Tutorial

Insert the loop turner all the way through the strap and make a small notch about 1/4″ (6mm) from the end to pull out the hook.

Just Patterns Spaghetti Straps Tutorial194

Pull the loop turner gently, moving and easing the fabric as you go until it is completely turned out.

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Congratulations, you made a beautiful strap ready to be installed on your Kate Bias Top or Christy Slip Dress!

Disclaimer – this post contains affiliate links to products similar to the ones we use in the pictures.

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Sewing Bias – Introduction and Inspiration

Today we are kicking off a series of posts around our 2 sewing patterns on the bias, the Christy Slip Dress and the Kate Bias Top. Both patterns are strongly inspired by our favorite fashion decade, the 90’s. We just love the era of supermodel and clean lines.

The dress hits below the knee and has a flattering rounded neckline, while the top features a sexy V, but they come from the same block, so you can easily interchange necklines. The simple lines of those designs lend themselves to endless possibilities to suit your fancy. You can choose a beautiful silk, make it double layer and add delicate details such as french seams, a baby hem and tiny spaghetti straps to achieve the perfect party dress or top. We promise you that you will never feel under or over dressed!

 

But you can also decide to make them as luxurious sleepwear or undergarments, with a single layer of silk charmeuse, bias binding and adjustable lingerie straps or try cotton batiste to stay cool on those hot summer nights. And if you feel like going even fancier, how about some lace appliqué around the neckline or the bottom edge?

We created Pinterest boards for you to browse and get inspired, we’ll keep adding more so don’t hesitate to follow them!

Our upcoming posts will feature specific techniques and tutorials as well as versions sewn by you! Grab your patterns in our Etsy Store and  share your slip or our camisole with us on Instagram (#katebiastop #christyslipdress) or in our brand new Facebook Community Group!