Dear readers,
That sheer panel at the hem of a skirt — you have seen it on the runway, on editorial shoots, on the kind of garment you look at and think: that detail is what makes it. It is not complicated, as it turns out. It is just the skirt cut into three pieces with a band of organza sitting between them.
This hack uses the Devon Skirt pattern to recreate exactly that effect. The skirt is divided into an upper panel, a narrow organza band, and a lower panel. On the right side, the organza creates a window of transparency just above the hem. The proportions I have used here give a result close to the reference look, but you can of course adjust them.
You will need your Devon Skirt pattern pieces, the usual skirt fabric, and a length of organza in a matching or complementary shade.
Step 1: The lower panel
Measure 33 cm (13 in) up from the bottom edge of the skirt and draw a line parallel to the hemline. Cut along this line to separate the lower section of the skirt pattern. This will become the skirt's lower panel.
Add a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance to the top edge of this piece.
Step 2: The organza panel
From the new hemline established in Step 1, measure 10 cm (3 7/8 in) up and draw a line parallel to the hem. Cut along this line. This narrow piece is the organza panel.
Add 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowances to both the top and bottom edges.
Step 3: The upper panel
The remaining portion of the pattern is the upper panel of the skirt. Add a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance to the bottom edge.
All three pieces are cut on the fold.
Construction
Skip Step 2 of the Devon Skirt instructions and proceed directly to Step 15, inserting the organza work between those steps.
Cut the organza panel pieces and place them right sides together, matching the short edges. Stitch with a 1.2 cm (1/2 in) seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances by overlocking, binding with bias tape, or sewing a French seam (0.6 cm + 0.6 cm / 1/4 in + 1/4 in). Press the seam allowances toward the back.
With right sides together, match the organza ring to the lower edge of the upper skirt panel. Stitch with a 1 cm (3/8 in) seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances using an overlocker or bias binding, and press them toward the upper skirt panel. From the right side, topstitch the upper skirt panel at 2 mm (1/16 in) from the seam line.
Place the lower skirt panel and the organza ring right sides together and stitch. Press the seam allowances open, then fold the lower skirt panel in half along the long edge, wrong sides together, and press. Press the raw edges of the organza ring inward by 1 cm (3/8 in). Align the pressed edge with the previous seam line and, from the right side, topstitch at 2 mm (1/16 in) from the edge, stitching through the lower skirt panel.
Continue with the Devon Skirt instructions from Step 15.
Use #JPDevonSkirt to share your creation, and if you have a look you would love to hack, send it to delphine@just-patterns.com.
Happy hacking and happy sewing,
Delphine