Should You Use Adobe Illustrator for Digital Patternmaking?

Dear readers,

 

After my last blog post on the myths of selling PDF sewing patterns, I got several questions about which software to use for digital patternmaking—specifically, “I want to sell home-sewing patterns, should I use Adobe Illustrator?” So, let’s dive into it. 

And at the end, I even included a little video demonstration of drafting and grading a basic skirt block!

The answers I’m going to give today are based on a few assumptions:

1. You want to draft patterns with the intention of selling them, meaning you will be grading them and plan to release a significant number of styles over time, and
2. You do not already know Adobe Illustrator or another software, and you are willing to invest time (and possibly money) into learning one.

If you don’t fit into these two categories, please note that my advice may not apply to you.

Short answer:

Yes, you can… but you probably shouldn’t.

Long answer: 

Adobe Illustrator is a great tool for vector-based design, and many designers find it appealing for patternmaking because it’s familiar, accessible, and versatile. I am a paid subscriber to the full Adobe Suite for Just Patterns, as I use Illustrator for my illustrations, InDesign for the instruction files, Acrobat for final PDF formatting, and Lightroom and Photoshop to edit my product pictures. So, I am not an Adobe hater by any means (although if I were starting now, I would seriously consider a one-time paid suite like the Affinity ecosystem).

However, Illustrator is not built for patternmaking specifically, and while you can use it, it lacks the specialized tools that professional patternmaking software offers. Trust me, once you’ve worked with a dedicated CAD system, you’ll wonder why you ever used anything else!

Why Illustrator isn’t ideal for patternmaking:

• Manual Grading: In Illustrator, grading (adjusting the pattern for different sizes) is a manual process. You’ll have to move points more or less manually (there are different ways to do it, but they’re all more manual than with CAD software). More importantly, you will not be able to “walk” each seam easily afterward, and this can lead to errors and inconsistencies—especially when you start working with more complex patterns. It will also be painful to regrade every time you make a change.
• No Built-In Patternmaking Features: Illustrator doesn’t come with tools specifically designed for patternmaking tasks, like automatically adding seam allowances, walking seams, transferring darts, or precise measuring across segments in all sizes. You’ll be doing a lot of these tasks manually, which is time-consuming and prone to mistakes.
• No Extra Features Like 3D Visualization or Fabric Markers: In a competitive market, creating a pattern is only half the battle. If I were starting now, I would seriously invest time in learning 3D visualization to cut down on sampling. CAD systems also come with a “marker tool,” where you can position final pattern pieces in each size on the fabric width of your choice. This is incredibly helpful when creating fabric estimates for your pattern.

So, What Should You Use Instead?

If you’re serious about digital patternmaking, I recommend switching to a professional CAD (computer-aided design) system designed specifically for fashion and apparel. These systems come with built-in features that streamline your workflow and make the patternmaking process much more efficient and accurate. Let’s talk about a few options—first, the one I’m using, PAD System, and second, the one I wish I had time to learn, CLO 3D. Since I actually don’t use CLO 3D, my opinion is not as informed, so keep that in mind when making your decision.

1. PAD System

• What is it? PAD System is a CAD software specifically built for patternmaking and grading. It’s designed for both small and large production, making it a great fit for independent designers.
• Why use it? PAD System includes all the tools you need for professional patternmaking: automatic grading, built-in measurement tools, seam allowances, and more. It’s also relatively affordable compared to the big players. You can exchange files with the format of other CAD softwares and export to Illustrator for the final prettying of the pattern pieces.
• Pricing: 45USD a month for the full licence. You can try it out for free for a month or pay for a limited licence while you are figuring it out. You can also only pay the months when you are using it.

2. CLO 3D

• What is it? CLO 3D is an software that lets you create, visualize, and even simulate your patterns on a 3D avatar. You can see how your garment will look and behave on a body, without having to sew multiple test garments.
• Why use it? The major advantage of CLO 3D is its real-time 3D visualization and simulation capabilities. You can test fit, drape, and style directly in the program, saving tons of time (and fabric) during the development phase.
• Pricing: CLO 3D is currently 50USD a month also with a free trial period.

Why not use the big industry names?

You might be wondering why I’m not suggesting tools like Gerber, Optitex, or Lectra, which are used by major fashion houses. The answer is cost. These programs are industry standard but they’re also extremely expensive and not designed with independent designers or small businesses in mind. The cost of purchasing and maintaining a license for these tools can be prohibitive, which is why many indie designers look for alternatives.

It’s important to note that not all high-end software works in a Mac environment, which was a requirement for me. I have been very interested in the German Grafis system for a while, but unfortunately, the lack of Mac integration is a dealbreaker for me.

Here’s why using a CAD system will benefit your Indie pattern business:

• Accuracy: CAD systems are designed to minimize human error which means fewer mistakes in your final patterns.

• Efficiency: Features like  seam allowances, faster grading, markers, dart rotations speed up the process significantly, allowing you to spend more time designing and less time adjusting.

• Scalability: As your patternmaking business grows, so will your needs but your time availability will reduce. Investing sine the beginning to learn a CAD software gives you the flexibility to develop patterns more quickly and to share your files with professional patternmakers or graders if you decide to outsource some of your operations. It also helps to understand how things are made when you engage dicussions with potential service providers.

• 3D Visualization: being able to visualize how a garment fits and moves can save you a lot of time (and headache!) before you start sampling and then testing your pattern.

What’s right for you?

That’s a question I can’t answer for you. If you’re just drafting for yourself and want to give it a go, using Illustrator might be okay for basic patterns. However, as you grow and your designs become more complex, it’s worth considering a tool specifically designed for patternmaking.

To help you get a clearer idea of how this works in practice, I’ve created a YouTube video where I demonstrate in real time how I draft a skirt block and grade it across my full 34-60 size range using the PAD System:

PAD System and CLO 3D are great options for those who want professional-grade tools without breaking the bank. Both softwares have a communities sharing tutorials and courses (free and paid) courses to learn them, so you really don't need to spend anything the first month to learn the basic while using the trial versions. I've gathered a few for you to have a look:

• The official Pad System Channel
• Pattern Studio 101 - Another youtube channel dedicated to Pad System
• The official CLO3D Youtube Channel

I know I rarely convince people not to do something, nor is it my objective. So if you still want to give Illustrator for pattern drafting a go, I recommend getting a good drafting and grading book (my recommendations here) and exploring all the tutorials on YouTube that teach digitizing, drafting, and grading on Illustrator for free. Here are a few you might find interesting:

• Course - Pattern Making in Adobe Illustrator - Patternlab London
• Grading in Adobe Illustrator - This is Kachi DIY

Final thoughts

Adobe Illustrator is a fantastic design tool, but when it comes to professional patternmaking, it’s just not built for the job. As pattern design becomes more complex and customer expectations increase, it’s crucial to use tools that can keep up. A professional CAD system will help you design more accurately, grade faster, and ultimately grow your business.

I know that sales marketing techniques are appealing, and some of them revolve around the promise of significant financial gain with little investment at the beginning. Unfortunately, the truth is always a bit less appealing. But because it’s more nuanced, it shouldn’t be mistaken for gatekeeping. For me, the true gatekeeping would be not telling you about better options for your business.

Regardless of the software you use, if you decide to start your home sewing pattern adventure, you will find an amazing community of people willing to help and share what they’ve learned along the way, without charging you hundreds or thousands.

If you’ve got more questions about patternmaking software or are curious about how to get started, drop your questions in the comments!

P.S. I’d love to hear your experience—are you using Illustrator for patternmaking? Or have you switched to a CAD system? Let’s chat below! 👇