Dear readers,
This is one of those tips I genuinely cannot explain the physics of, and yet I have seen it make a difference every single time. I am sharing it on faith as much as on understanding: just try it, and you will not go back.
The extra step most sewists skip
You sew a seam. You take it to the iron to press the seam allowances open, or together to one side. But before you do either of those things, there is a step that belongs first: press the seam exactly as sewn, flat, without opening it.
That means setting your iron on the seam line itself, on the right side of the fabric, with the seam allowances still folded together underneath exactly as they came off the machine. No opening, no spreading, no pressing to the side. Just flat.
Why it works
This first press sets the stitches into the fabric. The thread and the fabric fibres fuse slightly under the heat, which gives you a sharper stitch line and a smoother finish once you open everything up. The difference is subtle but visible, especially on crisp wovens and tailored pieces. The seam looks crisper. The fabric lies flatter. The final press is easier.
After this step, proceed as instructed: press open, or together to one side, front or back.
And if the pattern does not specify a pressing direction?
There is a full set of conventions for this, depending on the type of seam, the part of the garment, and the construction method. It comes up enough that it deserves its own post, and it has one. Check out the Tiny Tip on pressing directions for a full guide.
Happy sewing,
Delphine