Dear readers,
This was the tip that started it all. When I decided to launch Tiny Tip Tuesday, this is where I began, because it is such a perfect example of the kind of thing I want to share. Not a hack. Not a shortcut. Just a small rule that exists, that quietly matters, and that almost no one ever explains.
I had been sewing for years before I came across it. It was only when I was preparing for the CAP couture flou, the French professional sewing diploma, that I saw it written down as an actual instruction. That is when I realised there was a rule behind it, not just a preference.
Your serger stitches have two sides
Look closely at a serged edge. One side is smooth and flat, with a neat, regular stitch. The other side has more visible loops and feels slightly bulkier. These are not the same side, and they are not interchangeable.
- Right side: smooth, flat, neater finish
- Wrong side: more visible loops, slightly bulkier
The smooth side should face outward after pressing, for a cleaner and more professional result.
How to apply it in practice
For hems that are pressed to the wrong side of the fabric, and for seams pressed open: serge with the right side of the serging facing up as you work.
For seams that will be pressed to one side: serge the seam allowances together with the side the seam will be pressed toward facing up. That way, after pressing, the smooth side is what you see.
It takes a moment to think through the first few times. After that, it becomes automatic.
And on the question of which side to press toward
That is actually its own tip. There is a whole set of conventions for pressing direction depending on the seam, the garment, and the construction method. That will be covered in a future Tiny Tip Tuesday.
Happy sewing,
Delphine