Dear readers,
Have you ever gotten obsessed with a ready-to-wear piece and wondered if you could recreate it yourself? You're not alone. I often receive messages from makers asking, “Can I use one of your patterns to make something like this?” And honestly, that’s my favorite kind of question.
Figuring out how to turn inspiration into something you can actually sew is one of the reasons I started Just Patterns. While I’d love to release endless variations and add-ons, there are only so many hours in the day. So instead, I’m launching a new blog series called Hack the Look. It’s my way of showing how I would recreate ready-to-wear styles using existing Just Patterns designs.
For our very first installment, I’m tackling a question I received by email: how to turn the flared Ines Dress into a sleek gown with a fitted hip and dramatic front slit.
What We’re Making
We’re taking the original Ines Dress and making a few targeted adjustments to transform it into a column dress. The new version features:
- Fitted shaping through the hips
- A clean, tapered hem
- A left front slit for style and movement
Step 1: Establish the Hip Line
To start shaping the hips, begin by drawing a horizontal line across each pattern piece at the waist notches to establish the waistline.
From that line, measure down 20 to 23 cm (8 to 9 inches) to find your hip line (adjust this based on your own measurements) and draw the line across the pattern piece. Repeat for all pattern pieces except the side panels.
Step 1 (continued): Side Panels
Because the waistline on the side panels is slanted, start from the lower waist notch and measure down 20 to 23 cm (8 to 9 inches) along the grainline to find your hip point. Then draw a line perpendicular to the grainline at that level. This becomes your hip line for the side panel pieces.
Step 2: Calculate Your Hip Adjustment
We’re reducing the volume at the hips to get a sleek silhouette. Here's how:
- Find the finished hip measurement for your size in the pattern chart.
- Subtract your actual hip measurement and 5 cm (2 inches) for ease.
- Divide the result by 24 (12 seams, each with 2 sides).
Step 3: Adjust the Pattern
On each pattern piece (except the center back):
- Measure in from the hip line by the amount you calculated in step 2.
- Mark that point on both sides of the seam.
- Draw a vertical line straight down to the hem, parallel to the grainline.
- Mark where the new line meets the hem.
Step 4: Taper the Hem
To create a gentle tapering:
- At the hem, measure 0.5 cm (3/16 inch) inward from each vertical adjustment line.
- Mark the new point closer to the center of the piece.
Step 5: Redraw the Side Seams
Connect the newly marked hem points to the new hip points with straight lines. Then connect the hip points to the waist notches with smooth, curved lines to maintain a flattering shape.
Step 6: Add the Front Slit
To create a front slit on the left side:
- On side front 1 and side front 2, measure 10 cm (4 inches) down from the hip line and mark the slit height.
- Apply 1 cm (3/8 inch) fusible tape along the slit edges of both pattern pieces.
- Mark the same height on the lining pieces, but do not apply interfacing to the lining.
Construction Notes
- Construct the dress according to the original instructions, leaving the slit free on both the self and the lining.
- Hem the lining before finishing the slit.
- Understitch the slit lining to prevent it from flipping out.
- Secure the lining and outer dress at the side seams with thread chains to prevent twisting.
- The lining may peek out slightly, so choose one that complements your main fabric.
The Final Result
Your modified pattern pieces should now reflect a smooth, body-skimming silhouette with reduced fullness at the hips and a front slit that brings modern drama to the look. With just a few adjustments, the Ines Dress takes on a whole new life.
I hope this first Hack the Look inspires you to get creative with your patterns. If you have a ready-to-wear design you’d love to hack using one of my patterns, send your idea and I’ll add it to the queue.
You can find the Ines Dress PDF Sewing Pattern in the shop!
Happy sewing!
Delphine