.Dear readers,
First, let me thank you for your reactions to my last post. I received lovely messages in the comments, on Instagram, and by email. In addition to people volunteering to become part of the Just Patterns Development Group, I had some great discussions about sewing, patterns, and fashion! With over 70 volunteers for the development group, it has been tough to restrict the selection to 20. Still, I managed, and now everybody is hard at work and already providing great feedback! To offer an alternative to those who want to ask questions while they sew our patterns or post their finished makes, we also created a Facebook Community Group. I'm not much of a Facebook person myself, but I'm surprised already at the fluidity of conversation it enables.
But let's talk about today's dress! It is my first version of our latest pattern release, the Linda Wrap Dress. I have been obsessed with this dress since Eira drafted it, and It's for garments like this that I originally wanted to launch Just Patterns. I am thrilled that it has finally joined my closet!
I could go on and on about this design because I love everything about it! I think it has interesting details, such as the collar, the metal buckle, and the big pockets. It also has a kind of uniform vibe that makes me feel extra confident on days I have to attend important meetings. A little like a man suit, but more interesting that its traditional female counterpart, the sheath dress. In case you are wondering, the only closure is at the waist. I recommend wearing a slip underneath unless you like to live dangerously! The skirt overlap reveals an attractive yet appropriate amount of leg. But I've been caught in some crazy NYC winds, and luckily I was prepared!
Pattern
Pattern - Linda Wrap Dress
Size - 34
The biggest disclaimer of this post is that I did not sew the pattern as is. I used size 34, I removed 1" to the skirt length and 2" to the length of the sleeves. I could have sized up for the skirt to have some extra ease in the hips area. For future samples, I will also skip shortening the skirt and remove only 1" of the sleeve length. When we reviewed the fit and measurements of the final garment, we decided that it would be too small for most people. We moved all of our grading up one size as a result. But in case you are not into the relaxed look, sizing down is a great option.
Making
Fabric - Wool from Mood Fabric, I believe it was Rag&Bone
Notions - The 35mm buckle, eyelets, and snaps (inside the belt) are from Botani in the NY Garment District.
Of course, I am biased, but I find the construction of this dress very straightforward. I love that using french seams and sandwiching the bodice, and the skirt between the two layers of the belt provides clean finish on the inside, no serging or binding required! You may have seen on Instagram that I bought a Dual Compensating Raising Foot for my industrial machine, and it made the double topstitching easier. Since buying it, I keep looking for excuses to double topstitch ALL THE THINGS!
The belt buckle is probably the only unusual part of the construction, but I posted some pictures of the process, and if you take your time, it shouldn't be hard to figure out.
Pattern
Pattern - Christy Slip Dress and Kate Bias Top
Size - 34
I used our bias slip dress pattern to create a lingerie style slip. I needed a V neck to match the wrap dress plunging neckline, so I used the neckline of our bias top pattern. And since I was going to cut some silk, I decided that I may as well make a lingerie tank too!
Making
Fabric - Nude Silk Charmeuse from Mood Fabric
Notions - Gold lingerie strap hardware from Botani.
I used a single layer of fabric instead of 2, finished the edges with bias binding, and made adjustable lingerie straps instead of spaghetti ones. I wouldn't say that it is a very quick sew because of the time it takes to cut correctly, but the construction is relatively fast. I always find my slip/tank projects very rewarding. The garments feel luxurious and get worn a lot (including just to sleep!!), and the time involved is reasonable.
I love those three additions to my handmade wardrobe, and I can predict that the wrap dress is going to remain a favorite for the years to come.
After all, isn't creating pieces that will last longer than some cheap fast-fashion option what we try to achieve as sewers? Which of your handmade garment(s) has endured the test of time? I would love to hear your thoughts on creating a wardrobe that lasts!