One of the questions I get often is how to create those delicate, barely-there spaghetti straps. The good news? They are not difficult to make, but there are a few little secrets that make all the difference.
Spaghetti straps are also sometimes called rouleau straps. “Rouleau” is the French word for roll, and that is exactly what we want here: a very narrow tube of fabric that keeps a soft, rounded shape. You can use this technique for dress straps, camisoles, ties, button loops, or any delicate fabric detail that needs to look refined rather than flat and bulky.
There are many tutorials online for making fabric straps, but a lot of them result in wider, flatter straps. If you want that fine, rounded, ready-to-wear look, here are the three things that matter most.
SECRET #1: CUT IT ON THE BIAS
Start by cutting a strip of fabric slightly longer than your finished strap and 1 ¼ inch (3.2 cm) wide on the bias.
Whenever you cut a garment on the bias, it is a great idea to use the “lost” corners of your layout to cut extra bias strips. A 1 ¼ inch (3.2 cm) wide strip is very useful. You can use it later to bind edges or seams, or to make spaghetti straps like we are doing here.
To cut delicate fabrics like silk, chiffon, or slippery viscose, sandwich the fabric between two layers of paper.
After pressing your fabric, lay it in a single layer over a first layer of paper. Use the edge of the paper to align the selvedge as accurately as possible. Then unroll the second layer of paper over the fabric, again carefully aligning the paper edge with the fabric and the first layer of paper.
Dotted pattern paper is especially helpful because it makes it easy to align the grain and draw your bias strips.
Lay your pattern pieces over the second layer of paper. Whenever you have significant “lost” areas, draw 1 ¼ inch (3.2 cm) wide bias strips directly on the top layer of paper.
Cut through your pattern pieces and strips through all layers. Your scissors will be fine, I promise 😉
Store your extra bias strips by pinning them together and hanging them close to your sewing machine. They will come in handy more often than you think.
SECRET #2: DO NOT TRIM THE SEAM ALLOWANCES
To create the strap, fold one bias strip lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch no more than ⅛ inch (3 mm) away from the folded edge.
Now, this is the most important part of the tutorial: do not trim the seam allowances.
I know. It feels wrong. But once the strap is turned right side out, the seam allowance fills the tube. This is what helps the strap keep its rounded shape and prevents it from stretching into something flat and sad.
SECRET #3: USE THE RIGHT TOOL
A loop turner is a thin metal rod with a finger loop on one side and a tiny hook on the other. It is inexpensive, easy to find, and absolutely worth having if you like sewing delicate details.
You can use a tapestry needle and strong thread instead, but it will be more difficult. I have spent far too many hours turning fabric tubes with safety pins and needles, and I can tell you: a loop turner is the way to make very thin straps without blood, sweat, or tears.
To turn your strap, insert the loop turner all the way through the fabric tube. Make a small notch about ¼ inch (6 mm) from one end of the tube, then insert the hook through the notch.
Pull the loop turner gently, moving and easing the fabric as you go, until the strap is completely turned right side out.
Et voilà! You made a beautiful narrow spaghetti strap, ready to use on a dress, a top, a camisole, a tie detail, or even as delicate button loops.
That was easy, right?
You can find more tutorials and sewing tips in the resource pages of our sewing patterns. And if you try this method, I would love to know how it goes.
Happy sewing!