Dear readers,
Adding a lining or drafting a facing are part of those fundamental patternmaking skills that take five minutes to learn and make a big difference in your ability to make a pattern your own. I was asked about the first one for the Eva Skirt, because someone had fallen for a wool that was a little itchy or for a fabric that turned out to be more transparent than expected once it was on the body, so I finally put together a hack the look on how I draft a lining for a skirt that is finished with a facing at the waist.
The method is shown for both views of Eva, and it honestly takes longer to read than to do. The idea is simple: the skirt pieces you already have give you the lining pieces, the facing gets a seam allowance along its lower edge so the lining can hang from it, and the lining is trimmed a little along the zipper seam so it sits flat behind the zipper. Then there are a few changes to the order of construction, which I have listed at the end. And since the skirt view of the Karlie Skort also has a facing option and a zipper in the side seam, you will be able to use exactly the same method when she comes out.
View A: the pattern pieces
Copy or print the front/back skirt piece again. Leave one piece unchanged; this will be the upper skirt made from the main fabric. On the other front/back skirt piece, trim 4.6 cm (1 13/16") from the top edge and 15 cm (5 7/8") from the bottom edge.
Add a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance to the bottom edge of the facing piece.
First, cut the lining using the pattern pieces obtained in step 1. Then, on the front/back skirt piece, trim 0.6 cm (1/4") from the side edge, starting at the top edge and ending at the zipper notch. Transfer the resulting adjustment to the side edges of the skirt pieces that will form the left side seam.
You end up with two pieces for the lining: the shortened front/back skirt piece and the facing with its new seam allowance.
View B: the pattern pieces
Copy or print the side and center skirt pieces again. Leave one piece unchanged; this will be the upper skirt made from the main fabric. On the other side and center skirt pieces, trim 4.6 cm (1 13/16") from the top edge and 15 cm (5 7/8") from the bottom edge.
Add a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance to the bottom edge of the facing pieces.
First, cut 2 middle center lining pieces using the pattern pieces obtained in step 1. Then, on the middle skirt pieces, trim 0.6 cm (1/4") from the center back seam allowance, starting at the top edge and ending at the zipper notch. Use the resulting pattern piece to cut 2 center back skirt pieces.
For View B you end up with four pieces for the lining: the middle and side skirt pieces, and the front and back facings with their new seam allowance.
Construction notes
Sew the skirt following the instructions up to and including step B6. On the lining pieces, finish all side seams with an overlocker, and sew the overlock stitching from the right side of the fabric.
For View A, stitch the right side seam of the lining (the side seam where the zipper will not be inserted) with a 1.2 cm (1/2") seam allowance. For View B, stitch the front lining panels together, then front to side panels, side seams, and side to back panels, with total seam allowances of 1.2 cm (1/2").
Skip step 7 of the instructions. Instead, match the lower edge of the facing to the upper edge of the skirt lining, right sides together, and stitch with a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance.
In step 8, stitch the lining and facing to the zipper with a 0.6 cm (1/4") seam allowance. Then finish the side seam (for View A) or the center back seam (for View B) below the zipper with a 1.2 cm (1/2") seam allowance.
Continue sewing the skirt following the instructions, adding a hem to the bottom edge of the lining in step 11.
I hope this is helpful. If there is another design of mine you would like to see hacked, write to me at delphine@just-patterns.com, and use #JPEvaSkirt to share your creation.
Happy sewing,
Delphine